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For the past six years, my husband and I have been living in New York City, where I’m an editor at Condé Nast Traveler and Henry runs a travel-focused YouTube channel called @Resilentos. We got married in Henry’s native Peru, and when it came to planning our honeymoon, we quickly decided on two weeks split between South Korea and Japan. Both were countries we had long talked about visiting, thanks to their alluring blend of ancient charm and the hypermodern, but we kept waiting for “the right time.” Japan is already a popular honeymoon destination for Americans right now—after a few nights of unwinding at a ryokan together, I can see why—but my take? Everyone should go to South Korea, where we spent three nights in Seoul, two in Busan, and two on Jeju Island. Rather than have quiet conversations over candlelit dinners, we laughed over sizzling tabletop barbecue and clinked soju cups with strangers. Historic palaces and hanok villages were our quiet retreats, and we channeled that splurgy honeymoon mentality into K-fashion shopping days and Olive Young skin-care runs. Like a good banchan spread, of which we enjoyed many, it offered a little bit of everything. Here are my tips for a lively week across South Korea.
Omar and Teresa
Where we stayed
Our base in Seoul was young and international Hongdae, and we loved spending an afternoon in nearby Mangwon, snacking in the market, then sipping beer and playing cards in a shop called Mediums, where well-selected vinyl was always spinning. At night we worked our way through Euljiro’s tucked-away bars and smoky barbecue joints (Sancheong Charcoal Garden for black pork was a favorite).
What we ate
We ate anything and everything that didn’t require a reservation. Our regular travels are usually overscheduled, so it was freeing to unleash ourselves on some of Asia’s best markets and drinking streets, trying things like hotteok (sweet pancakes) as we found them. In Busan we loved the corridor between Jagalchi and Bupyeong Kkangtong Market, where the vendors sell and cook fresh seafood of your choosing.
Where we explored
In Seongsan, one of Jeju’s eastern villages anchored by its popular volcano, we stayed in an Airbnb called Seongsan Gakok, where the bed offered a perfect view of the famous peak, called Seongsan Ilchulbong. I suggest driving 10 minutes to the base, where you can watch the haenyeo (women divers) slipping into the sea, then take the hike to the top.
How we spent our mornings
Waking up early and going on a run in each destination offered a nice moment of calm before the constant stimulation of touristing. In Jeju that meant foggy mornings running through canola flower fields and past squids drying on a line. In Busan our run took us through the fringe of Jagalchi’s fish market and over a bridge with ocean views.
This article appeared in the March 2026 issue of Condé Nast Traveler. Subscribe to the magazine here.
